| Day 5 Kompong K-Dei to Siem Reap, Cambodia Kilometers 62 Miles 37.2 |
Road/Ride - NH 6 is sealed the entire ride. Good size
sealed shoulder. Traffic light until about 4 kilometers (2.4
miles) south of Siem Reap. Traffic is mostly tourist buses
and overloaded mini-vans, taxi scooters. Kilometer
markers are posted along the road.
The villages along this ride are larger and more frequent.
Twenty-eight kilometers (16.8 miles) from Siem Reap
vendors on the side of the road are selling sticky rice in
bamboo shoots. Thirty -five kilometers (39 miles) from
Siem Reap there is a good size market.
Food and water are well spaced out along the entire ride.
No gas stations or places for formal places for toilet stops.
We used the dried out river gullies as a private spot for our
pee breaks.
Bumps on the Road - The last two towns before arriving in
Siem Reap have speed lines. They are 8 long lines of low
speed bumps clustered together. At times we could pedal
around them, by most of the time they stretch out far into the
side of the road that there is no avoiding them.
Scenery - Lovely green lush surroundings on this ride.
More palm trees and large trees lining the road giving us
some much needed shade for most of this riding day. The
friendly locals continue to wave and call out, Hello,
Goodbye and Okay, all along this ride. Villages are a bit
larger with traditional homes and a deep ditch in front area
of each home to hold water. Tall haystacks decorate the
front area for each home. Passed many horse drawn carts,
cattle carts, the local iceman and battery recharging man
making their rounds.
Weather - I add this because the weather is very hot and
dry. We are sweating quite a bit and are drinking close to
10 liters of water each per day. No need to carry too much
water since there are road side vendors even in the
smallest of villages that sell water at about 500 riel (.12) per
bottle.
Had a great tail wind that pushed us along.
Hills - None on this ride. Yuppie!
Siem Reap town has lovely buildings with French
architecture, impeccably landscaped public parks, elegant
restaurants, nice Wats and enough hotel rooms to house
the entire population of Cambodia. Compared to the towns
we passed as we pedaled by to get here we feel as if the
entire county of Cambodia converges in this town. Traffic
is easy enough to maneuver through even though we have
to be extra cautious. Some motorbike drivers are a bit
chaotic in their maneuvers and come at you from all
directions. A good whip of the head in every direction
seems to work.
Tip! - We've noticed that Cambodian drivers, cyclists and
motorbikes don't really have a rhythm in there driving style.
They are reluctant, hesitant drivers in traffic and lack the
flow of movement we have found in other Southeast Asian
countries. Their hesitancy in making a move forward, and
their start and stop jerking motions make for a chaotic and
challenging ride.
The touristy area in the town is crowded around the old
market and what is known as the French Quarter along the
river. The streets are packed with restaurants, souvenir
shops, cafes, internet and ATM machines. Most streets
have no name, but the area is small enough that if you find
one familiar landmark you can find your way around. There
is one narrow alley, just south of the Red Piano that has a
string of lovely restaurants well worth strolling through at
night to see how they set up their tables.
Places to enjoy in Siem Reap. The Singing Tree Café and
Community Center, Offers yoga classes for $5.00, shows
documentaries in the evenings and children's movies in a
lovely tranquil garden setting. Free Wifi and internet and
the café also puts on special cultural events. It's well-run
place with nice surroundings to hang out. The people that
work in the Café are friendly and efficient and make you
feel welcome. The café is across the old market bridge on
the south side of the river two blocks up (toward Angkor
Wat).
We love the Blue Pumpkin. Few places live up to their
write-ups and this place hold true to its reputation. Great
service, great vegetarian food and amazing bakes goods.
They also have free WiFi and most of their goodies are 1/2
off after 7:00 p.m. Prices overall are inexpensive.
More vegetarian options In Siem Reap than Phnom Penh.
The Soup Dragon on the same street as the Red Piano in
one place with great vegetarian options. You can't miss it.
The location is lovely and the menu has extensive and
delicious vegetarian options including tofu in a sun dried
tomato sauce, hummus and a veggie burger. Prices are
very reasonable for the location and the portions a good
size. The Singing Café also has vegetarian options and
Viva, the Mexican restaurant has a vegetarian menu plus
the best flour tortillas we have tasted on the entire trip.
We shopped at both the old market Phasa Chaa and the
new market on Hwy 6 as you enter from Phom Penh. Both
central markets are well stocked with fresh vegetables, fruit,
bread souvenirs, knick-knacks, and everything else
imaginable. There are two supermarkets that have
imported goods from all over the world, including Thailand,
at relatively good prices. Every item is prices in USD. The
best supermarket is the Angkor Market on Sivatha Road a
little out of the way from the touristy area of town, but well
worth the visit. We found oats, muesli, soymilk, pasta,
French cheeses, American frozen foods and they also carry
Blue Pumpkins' bread and pastries, plus a good selection
of fresh vegetable and some fruit.
The two SORIMEX gas stations on Sivatha Road each
have a large and well stocked supermarket attached.
Buggy kids and vendors. Yes, they're here in droves.
Unfortunately, we haven't figured out the trick to being able
to stroll around with out having an entourage of tuk-tuk
drivers, postcard and book sale kids, restaurant touts and
massage ladies hamming up some business.
I have no good idea as to how to get past this constant
badgering. A simple and polite, "No, thank you", doesn't
work and at times we feel that ignoring their questions or
responding a bit harsher is not really the answer.
Beatocello Concert - Saturday night we went to the Dr.
Beat cello show at the children's hospital ultra modern
auditorium. The venue has seating for over 300 people
and the a/c is blasted at full throttle.
Dr. Beat is a living legend and a hero to the Cambodian
people. During his concert he plays the cello, sings a bit
and shows movies about his work at the hospital. Monetary
donations are appreciated, but really what the hospital
really wants is blood donations. The venue, donation pitch
and films made for a very thought provoking evening.
Slept - Angkor Voyage Villa
Location - On a side street off of Sivatha Road across the
street from the Red Piano Lodge.
Cost - $15.00 (quoted in USD)
Amenities - Large, tile room with nice wooden furniture,
large window with a view of the back streets and sunset.
Quiet street, yet centrally located. Two double beds, en
suite bath/shower/tub with hot water. Fridge, a/c, TV with
many channels in English. Desk, chair, armoire and
luggage storage area. Restaurant downstairs open all day.
Note - We found this guesthouse after seeing a room in the
Red Piano for $28.00. The room in the Angkor Voyage
Villa is nicer than the one in the Red Piano and it is 1/2 the
price.
Tip! When we enter a city that has lots of accommodations
we pedal to the area that has the most hotels and we look
for a guesthouse/hotel that is new and has not been listed
in any popular guidebook. Usually, the price is half of the
other hotels in the same area and everything is new, the
rooms are nicer, everything works and the staff is excited to
have guests.
Accommodations in Town. - There are more hotel rooms in
this city than there are Cambodians in the country. Just
kidding. Made that quote up, but honestly I don't think it's
too far from the truth. We did the rounds and found many
new hotels that are well worth the price including our hotel.
The older hotels are showing the neglect so head to one
that is new and not listed in any guidebook and you'll do
really well.
Side Trip - On Bicycles
Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia
The distance from Siem Reap to the ruins is about 8
kilometers,
The one-day pass can be purchased the night before
earliest is at 4:45 p.m. and we were allowed to go in and
see the sunset fall on Angkor Wat.
The park sign states that the park closes at 5:30 p.m. but
the park does not kick people out until after the sun sets at
about 7:00 p.m.
The one-day pass costs $20.00 USD per person and
allows one sunset, the day of purchase, and admittance the
next day for one entire day at the ruins.
Three-day pass is $40.00USD and the one-week pass is
$60.00 USD.
How many days to see the ruins? That's up to each
person's interest level and time constraints.
We were happy at the end of our 1 and 1/2 days of
exploration and felt we had seem quite a lot of lovely ruins.
Tip! - I recommend getting a hold of the free Siem Reap
Angkor Visitor's Guide. It's a booklet that has lots of
information about Cambodia, Siem Reap and other major
cities. The guide dedicates 12 pages to the ruins. What I
liked best are the mini-pictures of the ruins. The pictures
gave me a good idea as to what the ruins look like and if I
would be interested in seeing them "in person". Because
of the guide we didn't waste time and only pedaled to the
ruins we wanted to see. The guide also has a description
of each ruin, a great map of the site and suggested
itineraries. But the best part is the pictures.
Because we went to the sunset at Angkor Wat the previous
evening and spent close to three hours at Angkor Wat
exploring, taking hundreds of pictures while waiting for the
sunset we were ahead of the game for our official first day
at the park.
The next morning we pedaled right past Angkor Wat and
headed straight to Angkor Thom and that whole group.
Our itinerary followed the mini-tour as suggested in most
guides, plus we added the Preah Khon which is only 3.5
kilometers from the North Gate of Angkor Thom. We
pedaled up Preah Khon and back to Angkor Thom then
headed toward Thommanon, Ta Keo, TaProhm, Banteay
Kdei and Prasat Kraven and back to Angkor Wat.
We arrived at the park around 9:30 a.m. Had a leisurely
lunch at some picnic table next to a Wat on the way to Ta
Prohm, and finished the day around 3:30 p.m.
We had heard that the heat was going to be unbearable at
the ruins but riding around on our bikes gave us a slight
breeze and the day felt quite comfortable. Also the roads
to the ruins are tree lined and mostly shaded, plus we found
a lot of shady spots on the dirt paths as we pedaled from
one ruin to another.
With our bicycles we were able to cycle right up to the ruins
and lock them safety with the other bicycles.
Drinks, food and restrooms with western toilets, toilet
paper, paper towels and soap are at every major ruin.
Sometimes as many as 10 restaurants are lined up outside
a ruin. Fresh pineapple, mango, watermelon, water, drinks
are carried around by women and cost around .50 for a
whole pineapple and a liter of water.
Plenty of postcard buying opportunities from the local kids
that at times outnumber the tourists.
Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, Cambodia
We took the bus back to Phnom Penh from Siem Reap,
Cambodia
Mekong Express Limousine
Cost per person 10.00 cost per bike 5.00
Here's a trick we used that actually worked. When we went
into the Mekong Express office near the Angkor Market
(the supermarket with the western food on Sivatha Road).
We didn't ask if they could take bikes, we just assumed
they would and they did. Yeah!!
This particular company is the best at the moment. We
talked to several other travelers that used it and said it was
really good.
We were not disappointed. The only monkey wrench in the
plan was that we had to pedal our bikes to the bus station
on route 6 to get on the bus.
(Note: If you don't have bikes there is a mini-van that
leaves the Mekong Express Office and takes you to the bus
station area)
The bus station is around 4 kilometers (1.2 miles) from the
center of Siem Reap on highway 6 toward Phnom Penh
and is not really a bus station.
.
How to get to the bus station - Take highway 6 toward
Phnom Penh. On route 6 we passed the new central
market on our right and continued pedaling for another
kilometer or so and turned right onto the side road just
before the SKS gas station.
The bus station is more of an area on a dirt lot where all the
buses from every company congregate and leave.
There is a food vendor area, restrooms, but there are no
offices or ticket windows here. It you do not have a ticket
you can still walk up to a bus and the company sets up a
table in front of the bus and sells tickets for any remaining
seats.
We arrived at 6:00 .am. just as the Mekong Express
personnel arrived in their mini-van.
The bus arrives around 6:15 and since we were the first
passengers there they opened up the luggage area and
loaded the bikes. The only thing we had to do was remove
the front wheel.
They charged us $5.00 per bike and we paid that morning
and received an official receipt.
About the Mekong Express Limousine bus company -
We were given a light breakfast of pastries and water,
The employees wear lovely traditional Cambodian uniforms.
Each bus has a tour guide
The bus has a/c, toilet and numbered reclining seats.
The bus makes one stop in Kompong Thom at the Arunras
Hotel restaurant around 10:30 a.m. for about 30 minutes.
The bus has a TV that plays Asian movies and the volume
is kept low.
The ride takes 5 1/2 hours
The Mekong Express bus stops at their office at the corner
of 102 street and Sisowatha Road across the river smack
in the center of Phnom Penh.
sealed shoulder. Traffic light until about 4 kilometers (2.4
miles) south of Siem Reap. Traffic is mostly tourist buses
and overloaded mini-vans, taxi scooters. Kilometer
markers are posted along the road.
The villages along this ride are larger and more frequent.
Twenty-eight kilometers (16.8 miles) from Siem Reap
vendors on the side of the road are selling sticky rice in
bamboo shoots. Thirty -five kilometers (39 miles) from
Siem Reap there is a good size market.
Food and water are well spaced out along the entire ride.
No gas stations or places for formal places for toilet stops.
We used the dried out river gullies as a private spot for our
pee breaks.
Bumps on the Road - The last two towns before arriving in
Siem Reap have speed lines. They are 8 long lines of low
speed bumps clustered together. At times we could pedal
around them, by most of the time they stretch out far into the
side of the road that there is no avoiding them.
Scenery - Lovely green lush surroundings on this ride.
More palm trees and large trees lining the road giving us
some much needed shade for most of this riding day. The
friendly locals continue to wave and call out, Hello,
Goodbye and Okay, all along this ride. Villages are a bit
larger with traditional homes and a deep ditch in front area
of each home to hold water. Tall haystacks decorate the
front area for each home. Passed many horse drawn carts,
cattle carts, the local iceman and battery recharging man
making their rounds.
Weather - I add this because the weather is very hot and
dry. We are sweating quite a bit and are drinking close to
10 liters of water each per day. No need to carry too much
water since there are road side vendors even in the
smallest of villages that sell water at about 500 riel (.12) per
bottle.
Had a great tail wind that pushed us along.
Hills - None on this ride. Yuppie!
Siem Reap town has lovely buildings with French
architecture, impeccably landscaped public parks, elegant
restaurants, nice Wats and enough hotel rooms to house
the entire population of Cambodia. Compared to the towns
we passed as we pedaled by to get here we feel as if the
entire county of Cambodia converges in this town. Traffic
is easy enough to maneuver through even though we have
to be extra cautious. Some motorbike drivers are a bit
chaotic in their maneuvers and come at you from all
directions. A good whip of the head in every direction
seems to work.
Tip! - We've noticed that Cambodian drivers, cyclists and
motorbikes don't really have a rhythm in there driving style.
They are reluctant, hesitant drivers in traffic and lack the
flow of movement we have found in other Southeast Asian
countries. Their hesitancy in making a move forward, and
their start and stop jerking motions make for a chaotic and
challenging ride.
The touristy area in the town is crowded around the old
market and what is known as the French Quarter along the
river. The streets are packed with restaurants, souvenir
shops, cafes, internet and ATM machines. Most streets
have no name, but the area is small enough that if you find
one familiar landmark you can find your way around. There
is one narrow alley, just south of the Red Piano that has a
string of lovely restaurants well worth strolling through at
night to see how they set up their tables.
Places to enjoy in Siem Reap. The Singing Tree Café and
Community Center, Offers yoga classes for $5.00, shows
documentaries in the evenings and children's movies in a
lovely tranquil garden setting. Free Wifi and internet and
the café also puts on special cultural events. It's well-run
place with nice surroundings to hang out. The people that
work in the Café are friendly and efficient and make you
feel welcome. The café is across the old market bridge on
the south side of the river two blocks up (toward Angkor
Wat).
We love the Blue Pumpkin. Few places live up to their
write-ups and this place hold true to its reputation. Great
service, great vegetarian food and amazing bakes goods.
They also have free WiFi and most of their goodies are 1/2
off after 7:00 p.m. Prices overall are inexpensive.
More vegetarian options In Siem Reap than Phnom Penh.
The Soup Dragon on the same street as the Red Piano in
one place with great vegetarian options. You can't miss it.
The location is lovely and the menu has extensive and
delicious vegetarian options including tofu in a sun dried
tomato sauce, hummus and a veggie burger. Prices are
very reasonable for the location and the portions a good
size. The Singing Café also has vegetarian options and
Viva, the Mexican restaurant has a vegetarian menu plus
the best flour tortillas we have tasted on the entire trip.
We shopped at both the old market Phasa Chaa and the
new market on Hwy 6 as you enter from Phom Penh. Both
central markets are well stocked with fresh vegetables, fruit,
bread souvenirs, knick-knacks, and everything else
imaginable. There are two supermarkets that have
imported goods from all over the world, including Thailand,
at relatively good prices. Every item is prices in USD. The
best supermarket is the Angkor Market on Sivatha Road a
little out of the way from the touristy area of town, but well
worth the visit. We found oats, muesli, soymilk, pasta,
French cheeses, American frozen foods and they also carry
Blue Pumpkins' bread and pastries, plus a good selection
of fresh vegetable and some fruit.
The two SORIMEX gas stations on Sivatha Road each
have a large and well stocked supermarket attached.
Buggy kids and vendors. Yes, they're here in droves.
Unfortunately, we haven't figured out the trick to being able
to stroll around with out having an entourage of tuk-tuk
drivers, postcard and book sale kids, restaurant touts and
massage ladies hamming up some business.
I have no good idea as to how to get past this constant
badgering. A simple and polite, "No, thank you", doesn't
work and at times we feel that ignoring their questions or
responding a bit harsher is not really the answer.
Beatocello Concert - Saturday night we went to the Dr.
Beat cello show at the children's hospital ultra modern
auditorium. The venue has seating for over 300 people
and the a/c is blasted at full throttle.
Dr. Beat is a living legend and a hero to the Cambodian
people. During his concert he plays the cello, sings a bit
and shows movies about his work at the hospital. Monetary
donations are appreciated, but really what the hospital
really wants is blood donations. The venue, donation pitch
and films made for a very thought provoking evening.
Slept - Angkor Voyage Villa
Location - On a side street off of Sivatha Road across the
street from the Red Piano Lodge.
Cost - $15.00 (quoted in USD)
Amenities - Large, tile room with nice wooden furniture,
large window with a view of the back streets and sunset.
Quiet street, yet centrally located. Two double beds, en
suite bath/shower/tub with hot water. Fridge, a/c, TV with
many channels in English. Desk, chair, armoire and
luggage storage area. Restaurant downstairs open all day.
Note - We found this guesthouse after seeing a room in the
Red Piano for $28.00. The room in the Angkor Voyage
Villa is nicer than the one in the Red Piano and it is 1/2 the
price.
Tip! When we enter a city that has lots of accommodations
we pedal to the area that has the most hotels and we look
for a guesthouse/hotel that is new and has not been listed
in any popular guidebook. Usually, the price is half of the
other hotels in the same area and everything is new, the
rooms are nicer, everything works and the staff is excited to
have guests.
Accommodations in Town. - There are more hotel rooms in
this city than there are Cambodians in the country. Just
kidding. Made that quote up, but honestly I don't think it's
too far from the truth. We did the rounds and found many
new hotels that are well worth the price including our hotel.
The older hotels are showing the neglect so head to one
that is new and not listed in any guidebook and you'll do
really well.
Side Trip - On Bicycles
Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia
The distance from Siem Reap to the ruins is about 8
kilometers,
The one-day pass can be purchased the night before
earliest is at 4:45 p.m. and we were allowed to go in and
see the sunset fall on Angkor Wat.
The park sign states that the park closes at 5:30 p.m. but
the park does not kick people out until after the sun sets at
about 7:00 p.m.
The one-day pass costs $20.00 USD per person and
allows one sunset, the day of purchase, and admittance the
next day for one entire day at the ruins.
Three-day pass is $40.00USD and the one-week pass is
$60.00 USD.
How many days to see the ruins? That's up to each
person's interest level and time constraints.
We were happy at the end of our 1 and 1/2 days of
exploration and felt we had seem quite a lot of lovely ruins.
Tip! - I recommend getting a hold of the free Siem Reap
Angkor Visitor's Guide. It's a booklet that has lots of
information about Cambodia, Siem Reap and other major
cities. The guide dedicates 12 pages to the ruins. What I
liked best are the mini-pictures of the ruins. The pictures
gave me a good idea as to what the ruins look like and if I
would be interested in seeing them "in person". Because
of the guide we didn't waste time and only pedaled to the
ruins we wanted to see. The guide also has a description
of each ruin, a great map of the site and suggested
itineraries. But the best part is the pictures.
Because we went to the sunset at Angkor Wat the previous
evening and spent close to three hours at Angkor Wat
exploring, taking hundreds of pictures while waiting for the
sunset we were ahead of the game for our official first day
at the park.
The next morning we pedaled right past Angkor Wat and
headed straight to Angkor Thom and that whole group.
Our itinerary followed the mini-tour as suggested in most
guides, plus we added the Preah Khon which is only 3.5
kilometers from the North Gate of Angkor Thom. We
pedaled up Preah Khon and back to Angkor Thom then
headed toward Thommanon, Ta Keo, TaProhm, Banteay
Kdei and Prasat Kraven and back to Angkor Wat.
We arrived at the park around 9:30 a.m. Had a leisurely
lunch at some picnic table next to a Wat on the way to Ta
Prohm, and finished the day around 3:30 p.m.
We had heard that the heat was going to be unbearable at
the ruins but riding around on our bikes gave us a slight
breeze and the day felt quite comfortable. Also the roads
to the ruins are tree lined and mostly shaded, plus we found
a lot of shady spots on the dirt paths as we pedaled from
one ruin to another.
With our bicycles we were able to cycle right up to the ruins
and lock them safety with the other bicycles.
Drinks, food and restrooms with western toilets, toilet
paper, paper towels and soap are at every major ruin.
Sometimes as many as 10 restaurants are lined up outside
a ruin. Fresh pineapple, mango, watermelon, water, drinks
are carried around by women and cost around .50 for a
whole pineapple and a liter of water.
Plenty of postcard buying opportunities from the local kids
that at times outnumber the tourists.
Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, Cambodia
We took the bus back to Phnom Penh from Siem Reap,
Cambodia
Mekong Express Limousine
Cost per person 10.00 cost per bike 5.00
Here's a trick we used that actually worked. When we went
into the Mekong Express office near the Angkor Market
(the supermarket with the western food on Sivatha Road).
We didn't ask if they could take bikes, we just assumed
they would and they did. Yeah!!
This particular company is the best at the moment. We
talked to several other travelers that used it and said it was
really good.
We were not disappointed. The only monkey wrench in the
plan was that we had to pedal our bikes to the bus station
on route 6 to get on the bus.
(Note: If you don't have bikes there is a mini-van that
leaves the Mekong Express Office and takes you to the bus
station area)
The bus station is around 4 kilometers (1.2 miles) from the
center of Siem Reap on highway 6 toward Phnom Penh
and is not really a bus station.
.
How to get to the bus station - Take highway 6 toward
Phnom Penh. On route 6 we passed the new central
market on our right and continued pedaling for another
kilometer or so and turned right onto the side road just
before the SKS gas station.
The bus station is more of an area on a dirt lot where all the
buses from every company congregate and leave.
There is a food vendor area, restrooms, but there are no
offices or ticket windows here. It you do not have a ticket
you can still walk up to a bus and the company sets up a
table in front of the bus and sells tickets for any remaining
seats.
We arrived at 6:00 .am. just as the Mekong Express
personnel arrived in their mini-van.
The bus arrives around 6:15 and since we were the first
passengers there they opened up the luggage area and
loaded the bikes. The only thing we had to do was remove
the front wheel.
They charged us $5.00 per bike and we paid that morning
and received an official receipt.
About the Mekong Express Limousine bus company -
We were given a light breakfast of pastries and water,
The employees wear lovely traditional Cambodian uniforms.
Each bus has a tour guide
The bus has a/c, toilet and numbered reclining seats.
The bus makes one stop in Kompong Thom at the Arunras
Hotel restaurant around 10:30 a.m. for about 30 minutes.
The bus has a TV that plays Asian movies and the volume
is kept low.
The ride takes 5 1/2 hours
The Mekong Express bus stops at their office at the corner
of 102 street and Sisowatha Road across the river smack
in the center of Phnom Penh.