Takeo to Kampot, Cambodia
Kilometers 87 Miles 52
Road/Ride - Three roads on this ride. Hwy 2, then there is
the connecting road between Hwy 2 and Hwy 3 and finally
The entire ride is sealed. For the first 3 kilometers the
road out of Takeo is newly sealed asphalt, nicely painted
lines with a sealed, wide shoulder.
After the initial 3 kilometers west of Takeo the quality of the
road deteriorates. It is sealed but bumpy and lumpy. At
times it resembles a cobble stone street, with patched
potholes, melted bits and the edges of the road crumbly.
There is always a shoulder on this ride, but the quality
varies. It is not sealed and for the most part it is a path with
hard packed red dirt. Other times it becomes a gravel path
and at times it deteriorates into a combination of hard
packed dirt, gravel and loose dirt.
Directions out of Takeo - Exit Takeo heading west out the
same road you entered, Hwy 2. There is a new green
highway sign posted at a fork in the road indicating a left
arrow toward Highway 3 and Kampot. DO NOT take this
first left. Continue straight on the newly sealed road with
painted lines and nice wide shoulder. If in doubt ask the
locals for the way.
The road that runs west and connects Hwy 2 to Hwy 3 is
about 12 kilometers long and ends at Hwy 3 in the town of
Ta Saom. Ta Saom has lots of activity customary of a
roadside town built along an intersection. Good place to
stock up on food and water or get a bite to eat.
As we left Ta Saom heading south we came to another fork
in the road at the gas and the green Buddha.
The road to the left is Hwy 31 toward Kompong Trach and
the road to the right is Hwy 3 toward Kampot.
Because the road is so lumpy in parts it was easier to ride
on the hard packed dirt shoulder than the road.
Traffic during this ride, after the initial 12 kilometers, is light
to non-existent. We were surprised thinking that Hwy 3
would be more built up and transited. Traffic in the early
morning was mostly mini-vans overloaded with locals piled
on the roof. The mini-van traffic lasted for about one hour in
the early morning and then it was very quiet.
Food and water - Plenty of water and beverages at the
make-shift vendor stalls in all the populated areas, even if
they are not formal towns or villages. Food such as snacks
is more available and a more substantial meal is at the
Several decent size towns some with lively markets and
more formal food options such as vendor stalls and
open-air restaurants. Ta Sao Kilometer 12 (7.2 miles),
Chhhuk kilometer 40 (24 miles), Chakrei Ting 12
kilometers (7.2 miles).
Hills - None on this ride. About 20 kilometers north of
Kampot the scenery includes forested mountains in the
horizon. These mountains are part of the Elephant
Mountain range, but we didn't climb them.
Weather - Hot, slight to moderate headwind would hit us at
various times on this ride.
Scenery - This ride is extremely scenic, pleasant with very
light traffic. The surroundings area is rural, lush, green and
not built up or very populated. We pedaled past mostly very
small villages and small towns.
The view is mostly coconut palms, expansive fields of rice
paddies, dry fields that have collected water and are filled
with valleys of lily pads. Men riding cattle carts carrying
logs. Mini-bikes pulling wooden trailers packed with locals,
some bicycles, but mostly scooters. Closer to Kampot we
passed Mosques and saw local women wearing Islamic
The population is minimal and the towns are small, more
like farming villages. Some parts of the road are lined with
large trees offering shade. Plenty of vacant bamboo stalls
with benches, tables and shade for periodic breaks.
Other accommodations along this ride - Chhuk Town
around Kilometer 40 (24 miles) has as least 3
guesthouses. The newest one is at the north end of town
about 1 kilometer before arriving in town.
Chhuk town is a good stop to stock up on snacks and
Kampot is a small town on the edge of the river. Old
crumbling French colonial buildings are interspersed
among uninspired architecture along the city blocks and the
The town has an abandoned ghost town feeling. Streets
are empty of vehicle traffic and very few locals out and
about. We ran into a handful of tourists melting in the heat
of the sun. It's an easy town to pedal our bikes around.
Most streets are partially paved and some are hard packed
dirt. The town is small enough that it can be covered on
foot in no time.
Some nice restaurants along the river road near the bridge
that connects the town to Hwy 3 west.
The central market Phsar Leu, one block north of the central
traffic circle is a good size market that we found very lively
and well stocked with a large food court, plenty of stalls
selling basic necessities; shampoo, detergent, toothpaste,
dry goods, snacks, beverages, and In the middle of the
market there are vendors selling fish, meat and fresh
vegetables and fruit.
I found the liveliness of this market surprising when
compared to the rest of the sleepy town.
Bicycle parking us available.
Tour Bokor Hill Station -
Bokor Hill Station. 1.2 hour ride from Kampot sitting in the
back of a pick-up truck out in the open air as you bounce up
into windy road into the mountains. The French developed
the hill station in the early 1900's and some of the original
buildings still remain. Highlights include the elegant hotel
with ballroom and the Catholic Church.
The cost to get to Bokor Hill varies either $8.00 per person
(non-English speaking guide) or $10.00 (English speaking
guide). This includes transportation and a picnic lunch.
Vegetarian option available.
Slept - Borey Bokor Hotel, Kampot, Cambodia
Cost - $15.00
Location - Two block west of the traffic circle as you enter
Amenities - Older hotel that maintains its character. Wide
wooden staircase connects the floors. Attractive wood
paneled rooms with molded ceiling, large window with view
of the mountain range. Two double beds, en suite bath with
shower over toilet, TV with English channels, a/c and
fridge. The room is small, but the furniture is appropriate
Staff speak English. The hotel is used by tours and the
rooms are well equipped with all the amenities of a three
Bikes were rolled in through the hotel and locked behind
the lobby area at the foot of the staircase along with
employee scooters. Very safe.
Other accommodations - At the entrance of town on Hwy 3
coming in from Takeo there are 3 new guesthouses. Two
are next to the gas station and the other is across the street
on a side street. Easy to find.
We also checked out the Borey Bokor Hotel II at the traffic
circle. Newer, large tile rooms with view of the central
traffic circle. A/C and cold water only. Cost 15.00. There
are plenty of other accommodations in town.