Crossing the border - At Chiang Khong, Thailand to Houei Xai, Lao
The Thai border does not open until 8:00 a.m. but Mr. Vipat of the Chiang Saen River Hotel has a contact in the Thai immigration office that handles the paperwork early before the office opens. The transactions were completed quickly and the tiny ferry boats wait just below the Thai immigration office to cross people over the Mekong into the Lao border town of Houei Xai.
Transportation - Ferry boat from Chiang Khong across the river to the border town of Houei Xai, Laos. It was a quick loading of the bikes and panniers onto one boat and about 8 people on another boat. We zipped across the river into Laos within minutes.
On the riverbank in Houei Xai we pulled our bikes off the ferry boat and reloaded our panniers on our bikes. In the Laos immigration office just above the ferry landing we stood in line with the other tourist to receive our entry stamps and our passports.
Boat to Luang Prabang - The dock for the boat to Luang Prabang is about 3 kilometers from the Lao immigration building. We pedaled our bikes to the boat dock and the other passengers followed in the mini-vans.
Several wooden tourist boats were docked along the pier ready to sail to Luang Prabang. Rickety wooden planks are laid out over the slippery mud to climb on board. The boats are all very similar. Wooden benches with seating for two people or upholstered car seats are lined up in rows facing the front. Curtains hang from the roof and cushions are provided for the wooden seats. There are two long benches facing each one another in the front of the boat for about 10 people and a table with chairs is in the back dining area. Toilet is behind the dining area. Toilet paper is provided but I would recommend bringing a stash in case they run out. Food was not provided on our boat, but other boats do have food on sale, such as rice or noodles.
Our boat was scheduled to leave Houei Xai at 9:00 a.m. For some unknown reason the Lao authorities held up all the tourist boats heading toward to Luang Prabang and we did not set sail until close to 1:00 p.m. It was unclear as to why we were all delayed. The delay made the one day trip to Luang Prabang impossible and now we were on a two day boat trip, something we had not planned on.
Mr Vipat telephoned Pak Beng, Lao, the half way point between Houei Xai and Luang Prabang, to reserve rooms for all the passengers at one of the guesthouses.
Our arrival into Pak Beng was further delayed when our boat's propeller broke in the middle of the Mekong River just as the sun was about to set. The crew were unable to repair the propeller and we were forced to wait for another boat to rescue us. The last tourist boat heading toward Pak Beng spotted us stranded and stopped to assist. The boat was full and we squeezed our crew, passengers and luggage on to an already packed boat. Rich and I had to untie and pull our bikes off of the roof of the stranded boat and tied them on the roof of the new boat. By now the sun had set and we sailed down the Mekong in pitch darkness toward Pak Beng.
We arrived in Pak Beng well after dark. There is no dock at Pak Beng and no electricity where the boats arrive. The dock is below the town and there is no ramp or road. We climbed over rocks, sand and slippery mud over a steep cliff in complete darkness loaded with our bikes and panniers until we finally reached the guesthouse. Luckily plenty of local boys came over to help us carry our 10 packs for a tip.
Pak Beng, is a small village on the banks of the Mekong River. The village seems to have sprouted only for the tourists that happen to spend the night here on route from Chiang Khong to Luang Prabang.
There are a few guesthouses and two small hotels lined up in a row along the riverbank. Some of the accommodations look quite nice. Several restaurants and open-air vendor stalls are near the accommodations and some of the guesthouses also have restaurants. Vendors sell baguette sandwiches, a limited selection of fruit and vegetables and a variety of packaged goods such as cookies, crackers and chips.
Food is not provided on the boat and we had planned lunch for a one-day boat ride. That evening we strolled along the main dirt road in Pak Beng and purchased a few provisions from the tiny vendor stalls to make a lunch for the second day on the boat. We found banquettes, rice noodles, some fruit and a few vegetables and snacks.
There is a curfew in Pak Beng that begins at 10:30 pm and ends at 6:15 am. NO electricity, NO hot water, NO fans, NO lights. The climate is much cooler at night and in the early morning making fans and a/c unnecessary for sleeping.
Slept - A newer guesthouse along the river - I am sorry to say that under the duress I did not get the name. Location - It was up the sandy, steep hill from where the boat docks. At the top of the hill take a right and the guesthouse is on the left side. You arrive in the guesthouse by climbing a flight of steep stairs from the dirt road. Cost - Unknown. Since Mr. Vipat was unable to get us to Luang Prabang, Laos in one day, he paid for everyone's accommodations in this guesthouse. But rumor has it that the room was around 400 baht ($11.00). Amenities - Nice, clean room in new building. Room is furnished with flashlights, fan and en suite bath with western toilet. Shower with hot water is over the toilet. Windows open to a corridor/balcony with river view. The weather is much cooler and we didn't need the fan. No frills breakfast, at your own cost was served in the bare essentials restaurant. Bikes were locked right outside our room in front of our window against the rail. Very safe.
Second day on the Slow Boat From Pak Beng to Luang Prabang
Boat Ride - Second day. It took about 7.5 hours to arrive in Luang Prabang and we left around 8:30am. This includes a stop over at the Buddha Cave and a village that is about 1 hour from Luang Prabang on the Mekong River.
The boat ride is very scenic, calm and leisurely. The surrounding area is very nice. We spotted elephant along the river being used to move logs. Very tropical, lush and green area. After the ordeal of yesterday we were more relaxed today and really enjoyed the ride. Food was not provided on the boat and we brought our own lunch.
Luang Prabang, is a beautiful town with a good balance of architecturally stunning buildings mixed in with historically amazing Wats. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the small town is booming as it is making the most of its natural surroundings and it's appealing architecture. The main streets are crowded with cozy places to eat with every kind of food imaginable. Artisan shops are tastefully decorated with an exceptional display of local craftsmanship.
The town is very touristy, but deservingly so. It is saturated with Wats, lively monks, gorgeous architecture, breathtaking views of the rivers and the surrounding mountains, amazing food.
Luang Prabang, has a very lively and colorful traditional Laotian culture. The dazzling night market is an experience not to be missed. Locals in traditional dress display their beautifully crafted wares on the cobble stone main street.
This town is a cyclists dream. Most locals get around either on a bicycle, tuk-tuk or a scooter. The only cars in town are mini-buses hauling tourists from one Wat to another.
The most delicious and cheapest vegetarian buffet is set up on a side street just off the night market. For 5,000 kip (.50) you can choose from over a dozen different vegetarian delights. We piled our plate as high as we wanted then we'd sit at the long communal wooden table with other tourists and chat the night away. We ate there every night.
Most of the locals, of all ages, speak English more than just a few phrases vendors and hospitality employees use to communicate but complete conversations in English. This is a city that relies heavy on tourism, so is could be that we will not find this in the smaller villages. Laos accepts dollars at a rate of about 9,600 kip per $1.00. Also accepted is the Thai Baht at 10,000 kip (Lao currency) per 40 baht (Thai currency). Some restaurant menus are quoted in dollars and many vendors quote prices in all three currencies. We found the best exchange rate when we paid with baht or dollars and asked for our change in kip. . There are NO ATM's in Luang Prabang. We found two money changers in town on the main road. Money exchange and banks are closed on Sundays.
There are several places in town that have fast internet connections at about 100 k /minute and one bakery, Ban Vat Sene (no sign) near the Villa Santi, that has WI/FI free for 1 hour if you buy $6.00 or more of goodies.
Our favorite treat was the delicious garlic rotti or plan rotti at Nazims, the Indian restaurant on the main street. Baguettes are everywhere and can be bought from the street vendors.
Lots of used bookstores. I found the best and cheapest deal at the Three Elephant Café across from the Villa Santi hotel, down the laneway (alley). The place is on your right. Exchange any book, no questions asked, plus $1.00 that goes to the orphanage. Great selection. The operation is run by a super Aussie lady. She's a hoot plus and a great cook.
Enjoyed our first massage. We had heard horror stories about massages in Thailand getting a bit rough so we had decided to pass. But here in Lao the massage was amazing. Lots of places in town offer massages and we choose the Peninsula Sauna and Massage Center located in a new traditional Lao building next to Wat Xeing Thong on the road that parallels the Mekong River. The session was very professional and the masseuses were well trained. Total cost for our two massages was 80,000 kip (about $8.50) for one hour each. Highly recommend it. We would do it again and again.
Slept - Sayo Guesthouse Location - One block off the Mekong River across Wat Xieng Muang on Sotikoummam Rd. Cost - $30.00 Amenities - Old restored French Villa in the center of town. Large beautiful room facing the Wat. Traditional European tile, a/c, fan, TV with English channels, large refrigerator, huge bed, mosquito net, en suite bath, lovely antique furniture in the room. Price Includes free water, tea and coffee.