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Cycle Touring Routes   >  Laos   >  Houei Xai to Vientiane  >   Map  >  Day
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Crossing the border - At Chiang Khong, Thailand to Houei Xai, Lao

The Thai border does not open until 8:00 a.m. but Mr. Vipat of the
Chiang Saen River Hotel has a contact in the Thai immigration office
that handles the paperwork early before the office opens.  The
transactions were completed quickly and the tiny ferry boats wait just
below the Thai immigration office to cross people over the Mekong into
the Lao border town of Houei Xai.

Transportation - Ferry boat from Chiang Khong across the river to the
border town of Houei Xai, Laos.  
It was a quick loading of the bikes and panniers onto one boat and
about 8 people on another boat.  We zipped across the river into Laos
within minutes.

On the riverbank in Houei Xai we pulled our bikes off the ferry boat and
reloaded our panniers on our bikes.  In the Laos immigration office just
above the ferry landing we stood in line with the other tourist to receive
our entry stamps and our passports.  

Boat to Luang Prabang - The dock for the boat to Luang Prabang is
about 3 kilometers from the Lao immigration building.  We pedaled our
bikes to the boat dock and the other passengers followed in the
mini-vans.

Several wooden tourist boats were docked along the pier ready to sail
to Luang Prabang.  Rickety wooden planks are laid out over the slippery
mud to climb on board.  The boats are all very similar.  Wooden
benches with seating for two people or upholstered car seats are lined
up in rows facing the front.  Curtains hang from the roof and cushions are
provided for the wooden seats.  There are two long benches facing each
one another in the front of the boat for about 10 people and a table with
chairs is in the back dining area.  
Toilet is behind the dining area.  Toilet paper is provided but I would
recommend bringing a stash in case they run out.  
Food was not provided on our boat, but other boats do have food on
sale, such as rice or noodles.

Our boat was scheduled to leave Houei Xai at 9:00 a.m.  For some
unknown reason the Lao authorities held up all the tourist boats heading
toward to Luang Prabang and we did not set sail until close to 1:00 p.m.  
It was unclear as to why we were all delayed.  The delay made the one
day trip to Luang Prabang impossible and now we were on a two day
boat trip, something we had not planned on.

Mr Vipat telephoned Pak Beng, Lao, the half way point between Houei
Xai and Luang Prabang, to reserve rooms for all the passengers at one
of the guesthouses.  

Our arrival into Pak Beng was further delayed when our boat's propeller
broke in the middle of the Mekong River just as the sun was about to
set.  The crew were unable to repair the propeller and we were forced to
wait for another boat to rescue us.  The last tourist boat heading toward
Pak Beng spotted us stranded and stopped to assist.  The boat was full
and we squeezed our crew, passengers and luggage on to an already
packed boat.  Rich and I had to untie and pull our bikes off of the roof of
the stranded boat and tied them on the roof of the new boat.  By now the
sun had set and we sailed down the Mekong in pitch darkness toward
Pak Beng.

We arrived in Pak Beng well after dark.  There is no dock at Pak Beng
and no electricity where the boats arrive.  The dock is below the town
and there is no ramp or road.  We climbed over rocks, sand and
slippery mud over a steep cliff in complete darkness loaded with our
bikes and panniers until we finally reached the guesthouse.  Luckily
plenty of local boys came over to help us carry our 10 packs for a tip.

Pak Beng, is a small village on the banks of the Mekong River.  The
village seems to have sprouted only for the tourists that happen to spend
the night here on route from Chiang Khong to Luang Prabang.  

There are a few guesthouses and two small hotels lined up in a row
along the riverbank.  Some of the accommodations look quite nice.  
Several restaurants and open-air vendor stalls are near the
accommodations and some of the guesthouses also have restaurants.   
Vendors sell baguette sandwiches, a limited selection of fruit and
vegetables and a variety of packaged goods such as cookies, crackers
and chips.

Food is not provided on the boat and we had planned lunch for a
one-day boat ride.  That evening we strolled along the main dirt road in
Pak Beng and purchased a few provisions from the tiny vendor stalls to
make a lunch for the second day on the boat.  We found banquettes, rice
noodles, some fruit and a few vegetables and snacks.

There is a curfew in Pak Beng that begins at 10:30 pm and ends at 6:15
am.  NO electricity, NO hot water, NO fans, NO lights.  The climate is
much cooler at night and in the early morning making fans and a/c
unnecessary for sleeping.    

Slept - A newer guesthouse along the river - I am sorry to say that under
the duress I did not get the name.  
Location - It was up the sandy, steep hill from where the boat docks.  At
the top of the hill take a right and the guesthouse is on the left side.  You
arrive in the guesthouse by climbing a flight of steep stairs from the dirt
road.
Cost - Unknown.  Since Mr. Vipat was unable to get us to Luang
Prabang, Laos in one day, he paid for everyone's accommodations in
this guesthouse.  But rumor has it that the room was around 400 baht
($11.00).
Amenities - Nice, clean room in new building.  Room is furnished with
flashlights, fan and en suite bath with western toilet.  Shower with hot
water is over the toilet.   Windows open to a corridor/balcony with river
view.  The weather is much cooler and we didn't need the fan.  No frills
breakfast, at your own cost was served in the bare essentials restaurant.
Bikes were locked right outside our room in front of our window against
the rail.  Very safe.


Second day on the Slow Boat From Pak Beng to Luang Prabang

Boat Ride - Second day.   It took about 7.5 hours to arrive in Luang
Prabang and we left around 8:30am. This includes a stop over at the
Buddha Cave and a village that is about 1 hour from Luang Prabang on
the Mekong River.

The boat ride is very scenic, calm and leisurely.  The surrounding area is
very nice.  We spotted elephant along the river being used to move
logs.  Very tropical, lush and green area.  After the ordeal of yesterday
we were more relaxed today and really enjoyed the ride.  Food was not
provided on the boat and we brought our own lunch.

Luang Prabang, is a beautiful town with a good balance of architecturally
stunning buildings mixed in with historically amazing Wats.  As a
UNESCO World Heritage Site, the small town is booming as it is
making the most of its natural surroundings and it's appealing
architecture.  The main streets are crowded with cozy places to eat with
every kind of food imaginable.  Artisan shops are tastefully decorated
with an exceptional display of local craftsmanship.  

The town is very touristy, but deservingly so.  It is saturated with Wats,
lively monks, gorgeous architecture, breathtaking views of the rivers and
the surrounding mountains, amazing food.

Luang Prabang, has a very lively and colorful traditional Laotian culture.  
The dazzling night market is an experience not to be missed.  Locals in
traditional dress display their beautifully crafted wares on the cobble
stone main street.  

This town is a cyclists dream.  Most locals get around either on a
bicycle, tuk-tuk or a scooter.  The only cars in town are mini-buses
hauling tourists from one Wat to another.

The most delicious and cheapest vegetarian buffet is set up on a side
street just off the night market.  For 5,000 kip (.50) you can choose from
over a dozen different vegetarian delights.  We piled our plate as high
as we wanted then we'd sit at the long communal wooden table with
other tourists and chat the night away.  We ate there every night.  

Most of the locals, of all ages, speak English more than just a few
phrases vendors and hospitality employees use to communicate but
complete conversations in English.  This is a city that relies heavy on
tourism, so is could be that we will not find this in the smaller villages.
Laos accepts dollars at a rate of about 9,600 kip per $1.00.  Also
accepted is the Thai Baht at 10,000 kip (Lao currency) per 40 baht (Thai
currency).  Some restaurant menus are quoted in dollars and many
vendors quote prices in all three currencies.  We found the best
exchange rate when we paid with baht or dollars and asked for our
change in kip.
.
There are NO ATM's in Luang Prabang.  We found two money changers
in town on the main road.  Money exchange and banks are closed on
Sundays.

There are several places in town that have fast internet connections at
about 100 k /minute and one bakery, Ban Vat Sene (no sign) near the
Villa Santi, that has WI/FI free for 1 hour if you buy $6.00 or more of
goodies.   

Our favorite treat was the delicious garlic rotti or plan rotti at Nazims, the
Indian restaurant on the main street.  Baguettes are everywhere and can
be bought from the street vendors.

Lots of used bookstores.  I found the best and cheapest deal at the
Three Elephant Café across from the Villa Santi hotel, down the laneway
(alley).  The place is on your right.  Exchange any book, no questions
asked, plus $1.00 that goes to the orphanage.  Great selection.  The
operation is run by a super Aussie lady.  She's a hoot plus and a great
cook.

Enjoyed our first massage.  We had heard horror stories about
massages in Thailand getting a bit rough so we had decided to pass.  
But here in Lao the massage was amazing.  Lots of places in town offer
massages and we choose the Peninsula Sauna and Massage Center
located in a new traditional Lao building next to Wat Xeing Thong on the
road that parallels the Mekong River.  
The session was very professional and the masseuses were well
trained.  Total cost for our two massages was 80,000 kip (about $8.50)
for one hour each.  Highly recommend it.   We would do it again and
again.  

Slept - Sayo Guesthouse
Location - One block off the Mekong River across Wat Xieng Muang on
Sotikoummam Rd.
Cost - $30.00
Amenities - Old restored French Villa in the center of town.  Large
beautiful room facing the Wat.  Traditional European tile, a/c, fan, TV
with English channels, large refrigerator, huge bed, mosquito net, en
suite bath, lovely antique furniture in the room.  Price Includes free water,
tea and coffee.  
Day 2
The Boat from Houei Xai to Luang Prabang