Day 5 Ban Lao to Thakhek Kilometeres 109 Miles 65.4
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Ride/Road - Hwy 13 is newly sealed with a narrow shoulder
that at times is gravel or disappears. Rolling hills the entire
way. Not steep climbs or long descents just a constant up
and down.
Traffic is light to non-existent, mainly scooters, and tuk-tuks.
Traffic picks up about 15 kilometers north of Thahkek more
private and military vehicles. Not much to worry about
along the road except when a car passes another vehicle at
very high speeds. Several times herds of nervous cattle
took over the road and surrounded us, okay they
surrounded me. Somehow Rich always manages to get
away.
No accommodations on the road - We heard there was a
guesthouse in Namthone. After cycling 3 kilometers south
of Ban Lao we entered Namthone. We did not see any
guesthouses.
Fifty kilometers (30 miles) south of Pakkading is a cluster
of towns around Hinboun, along a river. There was a rumor
of a guesthouse here, but we did not find one.
Travelers on the Road. - Around kilometer 70 (42 miles)
south of the intersection) we met a Japanese man that is
walking around Lao. He looked tired and ready to stop, but
he too had heard about accommodations around kilometer
50 (30 miles) but he didn't find anything, so he kept on
walking.
At the end of each day he'll get on a tuk-tuk to the next town
and sleep. In the morning he'll take a tuk-tuk back to the
exact spot he stopped and continue his walk. Very
interesting.
Weather - Cool morning, dry, dusty wind with a warm to hot
sun by mid-day. I started the first hour of riding with a few
light layers of clothes. Began our ride around 7:15 a.m in a
fog of smoke. The air was saturated with smoke from the
coal and brush fires. We both wore our facemasks until
mid-day. A very slight head wind would catch us at various
times, not as bad as the previous day's ride.
Scenery - I added this section today only because the
landscape was much more scenic than the previous 4
days. Having something nice to look at does make for a
more pleasant ride. Lush, forested areas, beautiful river
crossings with locals in wooden canoes on the water and a
background of a spectacular mountain range.
We passed many small farming villages all along the way
with traditional bamboo, thatched roofed homes built on
stilts. Plenty of enthusiastic locals yelling and calling,
"Sabadee", and "Hello". Lots of waving and kids running
toward us from every direction. We noticed that greeting
the foreign cyclists is not just for kids. Locals of all ages,
men and women, are calling out and waving.
Facilities/Food - No formal toilet stops on the road, but
plenty of bushes for a private pee. Snacks and drinks
scattered along the way, mostly make shift stands in the
villages. Major food options with a market and restaurants
around kilometer 50 (30 miles) when we passed a cluster
of towns.
Lunch on the Run - For the last 5 days we've stopped along
the highway at vacant, thatched bamboo vendor huts or
concrete gazeboes to have our picnic lunch. No matter
how many locals are around during our lunch breaks they're
always very respectful of our meal time and go about their
business. It seems so odd considering the reaction we get
when we pedal by the villages.
Thakhek is a medium size town, well built up with lots of
activity. It is a nice enough town along the river bank to
spend a day or two stocking up on supplies and getting a
rest. After pedaling five days (non-stop) from Vientiane,
including two long days with over 100 kilometers of
pedaling, we decided to give our bodies (and minds) a rest
in Thahkek.
The town has some buildings with beautiful architecture but
sadly the town is very run down. Most buildings are
crumbling to pieces, but we can still see some of the grand
architecture of a past era. Thakhek is a great town to cycle
around even though there are few paved streets the traffic
is light, mostly tuk-tuks and scooters and the unpaved
streets are hard packed dirt or mud.
The streets are crowded with plenty of shops, restaurants
and accommodations. The open markets in Thahkek are
very well stocked. We found delicious blocks of tofu, fresh
baguettes, a good variety of vegetables and fruit, floppy fish
in buckets and other unrecognizable delicacies.
The road that runs along the river has exceptional views of
the Mekong and the bordering town in Thailand. Cars
ferry's go across the water and there are make-shift
restaurants set up along the bank where we could sit to
watch the spectacular sunset.
Internet - Rich found a very slow internet café directly
behind the Mekong Hotel on a side street. 300k per minute.
Slept - Khammouan "Mekong Hotel"
Location - Setthativat Rd. (Next to Wat) overlooking the
Mekong River.
Amenities - Nicely furnished, tile room with two double
beds, closet, vanity table, two chairs with table. Window
faces the back yard. Fridge, fan (no a/c), but no need for
anything other than a fan. Mornings and nights are cool.
En suite shower with bathtub and hot water, western toilet.
No view of the river, but a lovely, open-air restaurant with
river view.
Room is on the first floor. We walked our bikes through the
lobby and rolled them right into our room. Enough space to
accommodate bikes and packs. Very secure.
Other accommodations in town - Plenty to choose from.